1800 Gallon Landscaper Pond Kit
Our professional grade pond kits come with everything that you need to install large ponds up to 4000 gallons in size!
For example, our 1800 gallon pond:
- 1- 15' X 20' EPDM liner
- 1- 10' X 15' EPDM liner
- 2 - 10 X 15' liner underlay
- 1- U.V. Clarifier - 1000GPH
- 1- Algreen pond skimmer with lid, trap basket, and secondary filtration mat
- 1- Bio Waterfall Filter with carbon filtration media, mechanical filtration, biological filtration, bacteria colony pouches, and a foam dampening mat to smooth out the waterfall flow
- 1- Maxflo 12000 waterfall Pump
- 1-Superflo 2000 submersible pump with fountain heads
- 1- 3-piece submersible underwater light with transformer
- 1- 1" X 50' Non-kink tubing
- 1- New Pond water treatment
- 1- 3" X 25 ft. seaming liner tape
Here's how easy it is to install our 1800 gallon professional pond kit:
Step one - Planning
Figure out how much space you have at your disposal. Once you have determined how much of your yard you are devoting to your pond, try sketching it out. This will help you get a better picture of exactly what you want to do.
After you have finalized the shape and area in which your pond is going, you need to start putting your plan into action. Mark the pond area with garden hose. When you're satisfied with the shape of the pond, use a powdered substance like flour or chalk to mark the final shape. Lay the pressurized filter, UV clarifier, skimmer, and plumbing in place.
Step two - Excavation
To begin with this, you should establish where in your pond you'd like your shelves, as well as where the deepest point of your pond will be.
Dig out the coping shelf area (approximately 2 to 4 inches deep and 15 inches wide). The purpose of the coping shelf is to support the stone veneer to hide the pond liner.
Optionally, you can also dig a bog shelf for plants. Most ponds are designed with shelves 9" to 12" below the water surface.
Now continue with your excavation, digging your deepest point and making sure to shape the hole how you would like the finished pond to appear. After you've done this, you'll need to check and make sure everything's level. To do this, place a 2' x 4' across the top of your pond, and place a level on top. This will show you whether your excavation is level. This is important because if it isn't, the water will end up deeper at one end of the pond than the other.
Carve out a 4-inch-deep basin just above the main pond, toward the waterfall area, as an interior level to create a cascading effect. Also dig out two 16-inch-deep holes at opposite ends of the pond to hold the skimmer box and Bio Waterfall Filter unit. Finally, dig out a few shallow plant pockets in the pond floor for setting aquatic plants in later.
Carve out a small basin to hold the UV clarifier beside the pond.
If you want to install a stream or a waterfall (see step #6), you will need to excavate a channel for the water. Streams can be set in level ground. A stream only needs a one-inch drop in elevation per ten feet to affect a flow from the top down to the reservoir. When you are digging out your stream, dig deep enough to allow for the thickness of all the rocks and up to three inches of water (and 3-4 inches above that). Dig your channel wide enough to accommodate the widest section of your stream.
Step three – Skimmer and BioWaterfall Filter Installation
Set the skimmer box into the hole at the end of the pond, with the drainage hole facing out toward the pond. The skimmer should be set so that the top of its mouth is no less than 1 inch above your intended water level. Make sure that the skimmer is level and secure. The MaxFlo pump will be installed inside the skimmer later.
The Bio Waterfall Filter should be set into the hole at the opposite end of the pond than the skimmer.
Step four – Laying out liner for pond
Before laying the pond liner, cover the pond area, extending over the pond shelf, with underlayment and tuck it into pleats to conform to the shape of the pond. Cover the fabric with the heavy-duty (45-mil-thick) pond liner. Use caution, because even a small tear can result in a leak. You can use stones to weigh down the pond liner in the center of the pond.
Try to minimize the folding and pleating of the liner, because folds have the potential to trap dirt and debris. If you are worried about debris collecting in the folds, you have the option of sealing the folds with seaming tape.
Cut a rectangular hole in the pond liner with sides that are 1" shorter than the rectangular opening of the skimmer. Connect the hole in the pond liner to the skimmer, using PVC tape.
Step five – Positioning of Pumps, Underwater lights, and UV clarifier
Position the UV clarifier inside the small basin (that you dug in step 2) beside the pond. Using tubing and clamps, connect the output of the MaxFlo pump to the UV clarifier. Connect the output of the UV clarifier to the input of the BioWaterfall Filter. The output of the BioWaterfall Filter will be used to feed the streamlet (or top tier).
Set up the SuperFlo pump in the middle of your pond so that it circulates and filters the water from the bottom of the pond. The SuperFlo pump also creates a fountain spray.
Position the underwater lighting at the bottom of your main pond.
Step six – Building stream/upper tier
The output from the Bio Waterfall Filter will feed the top of your stream.
Every waterfall or stream must be lined to prevent water loss. During the excavation process, you should have dug out sides that are high enough to prevent water from splashing out. Lay out the flexible (10’) liner on the ground between the top of the stream and the pond (for the water channel). Ensure that the waterfall liner overlaps the pond liner by several inches. Use seaming tape (provided) to seam the two liners together. The width of the water course needs to narrow where you plan to have it go over the falls. Put stones in the narrow area and use flat rocks on top of them. Your flatrock (spillstone) should slope slightly toward the lower pond and project over the foundation stones directing the water out rather than down. This will make a nice sound as it spills into the lower pond. Bring your liner up the sides of the water channel at least 12 inches. Tuck the liner back into the soil and hide it with rocks. Run water to test the flow of the falls. After you are pleased with the results, you can mortar the stones into place on top of the liner as you would to install edging.
Step seven – Backfill topsoil
Use excess soil to backfill around the edges of the pond and the watercourse channel. Expanding foam can be also used in the watercourse channel to ensure that water does not leak.
Excess soil should also be used to partially bury the UV clarifier and the pressurized filter, to conceal them both from view.
Step eight – Build retaining wall (if required)
If your installation site has uneven elevation, you may require a retaining wall. A retaining wall is built simply by stacking stones around the pond.
Step nine - Fill the pond
Start filling the pond with water. Smooth out wrinkles in the liner as they occur. Cut off any excess liner, but make sure that enough material is left to allow the liner to extend over the coping shelf, and underneath whatever edging is planned. Anchor the liner with boulders or long nails around the edge.
Step ten - Add edging materials
Add edging materials to weigh the liner down. Edging materials may include sod, and any rocks or boulders that you may have available. Edging materials also help to hide the liner to produce a natural look.