Monitoring Pond Water Quality
There are four main things that need to be monitored in terms of your pond water:
- pH level
- Ammonia level
- Pond Algae
- Debris in Pond
1. Monitoring Pond Water pH Levels
pH affects all aquatic life, including plants. A stable pH of 6.8 to 8.0 is the best suited for pond fish. Concrete used in a waterfall or to hold rocks in place can leach into the water in new ponds, causing the pH to become too basic and rise above 8.0. pH changes throughout the day, so testing should be done about three times a day until the stability of the pH has been established. If the pH is still fluctuating, there are commercially available products to change and stabilize the pH.
2. Pond Water Ammonia Levels
Fish naturally eat worms and algae and other organic materials that might be present in the pond. Just like humans, fish create waste, which is toxic to the fish. Fish waste and dead leaves create ammonia in the water, which can kill the fish. In the nitrifying cycle, a bacteria called Nitrosomonas converts the ammonia to nitrites. Nitrites are still very lethal to fish, but another bacteria called Nitrobacter can convert the deadly nitrites to nitrates (which is basically fertilizer). Plants in the water, including algae, take nourishment from these nitrates and reduce the amount of nitrates in the water, rendering the water fish-safe. Of course, the fish eat the plants and the cycle starts all over again.
You should test your pond at regular intervals for Ammonia. These tests should be more frequent for new ponds because their eco-systems have not stabilized yet. An ammonia test kit can be purchased from commercial stores. The only acceptable reading from an ammonia test is "0." A temporary fix for a positive ammonia reading would be to change the pond water (remember to add "New Pond" to remove the chlorine and chloramines from the new tap water!).
A zero level of Ammonia can be accomplished by:
- The direct removal of Ammonia through the use of pond treatments.
- The conversion of Ammonia to harmless nitrates. This can be accomplished through the use of biological filtration. Biological filters provide housing for both Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter.
3. Pond Water- Algae
All bodies of water go through what we call an "algae bloom" that will turn the water green. It’s a very natural occurrence that happens whenever the water heats up and there is enough "fuel" in the water to feed the algae. Mother Nature has her way of clearing the water. One day, after weeks of not being able to see your fish (much less the bottom of the pond), you may walk out and find that your pond is clear. The following is a list of things that you can do to help Mother Nature do her job.
- Sun / Shade
Algae, like most plants, need sunlight to survive. Most of us can’t move our pond to the shade, but there are ways to simulate shade. There are products available that color your water blue, such as Pond Shade. You can also create shade for your sunny pond by adding floating plants such as water hyacinths, water lettuce and waterlillies.
- Starve the Algae
Water plants, especially floaters and anacharis, compete with algae for nutrients in the water. The more plants you have, the more the algae starves and reproduces less. Stock up with plants. You may not want to use fertilizer in your plants until your ecological balance has been met.
Do not scrub the sides of your pond. The green coat that forms on the liner and on the sides and the bottom of the pond is beneficial to the pond itself. The jelly-like substance is algae that is packed with nitrifying bacteria. Nitrifying bacteria is paramount in order to limit the Ammonia levels in the pond. If you want to give your pond a thorough cleaning, start with the bottom of the pond, where parasites and bad bacteria usually form.
A new method of controlling filamentatious pond algae uses barley straw submerged along pond shorelines. The rotting straw produces hydrogen peroxide as it decomposes, which kills pond algae. Barley straw has proven more effective than wheat, hay, or grass, and is usually anchored underwater in shallow net bags. To be most effective, pond temperatures should be 40 degrees Farenheit with good dissolved oxygen levels and water circulation. Barley straw works best if applied early in the season and should be replaced every 6 months. Barley straw is available from garden centers in either straw or extract form.
4. Pond Water- Debris in Pond
Brown water indicates that there is floating dirt and particles in the water. Rotting leaves and debris create "tanning" of the water. There are three things that you can do to clear the brown water.
- Clean the Filter.
Don’t wash all the filter material with chlorinated water. Instead, take the least dirty pads and wash them with water from your pond (this keeps the good bacteria alive).
- Use a Water Clarifyer.
Applying the Natural Clear pond treatment can help. It binds minute particles in your water together and forces it to the bottom of the pond. Again, follow precautions and make sure that your system is highly aerated during the process. If in doubt, we have aeration equipment that you can rent for this reason.
- Vacuum the Pond.
Now you should be able to see the bottom of the pond and all the mulm and trash you never knew existed. One of the ponder’s best tools is a shop vac or wet vac. Use it to vacuum the bottom and sides of the pond. Don’t scrub the slime off the sides. It’s beneficial to your eco-system.
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